20120814-174-morocco-fes
The larger tannery, and what most tourist guides are referring to when they mention the Fes tanneries. Apparently there are some smaller and quite unimpressive ones around the medina that kids will try to lure you into. Beware, as always.
Photos taken from the shop (it's effectively the only way to see the tannery at all, unfortunately) on the north side. The shop on the west side seemed a bit pushier, although the distinction there is subtle at best.
From memory: far corner, between the white and coloured pits, are the machines they steam the hides in when they first come in. White pits on the left are where they then soak the leather for for a week in a combination of lime and bird droppings, and this accounts for some of the smell. Coloured vats on the right are where the actual dying takes place - and they'll obviously account for the remainder of the menagerie of interesting aromas you get while standing above the site.
Photos taken from the shop (it's effectively the only way to see the tannery at all, unfortunately) on the north side. The shop on the west side seemed a bit pushier, although the distinction there is subtle at best.
From memory: far corner, between the white and coloured pits, are the machines they steam the hides in when they first come in. White pits on the left are where they then soak the leather for for a week in a combination of lime and bird droppings, and this accounts for some of the smell. Coloured vats on the right are where the actual dying takes place - and they'll obviously account for the remainder of the menagerie of interesting aromas you get while standing above the site.